Polymer ClayMaterialPolymer clays all contain a basis of PVC and one or more of several kinds of liquid plasticizer.[1] Pigments may be added to the translucent base to create a variety of colors, along with small amounts of kaolin or white china clay or other opaquing agents where opacity is desired. Mica may be added to simulate pearlescent and metallic effects.
HistoryBakelite, an early plastic used in both practical and decorative applications, was extremely popular with designers and had an early form of polymer clay available in kits, but the phenol base of uncured Bakelite was flammable and these were discontinued. Modern polymer clays are based on a plastic modeling compound brought to the attention of German doll maker Kathe Kruse in the late 1930s as a possible replacement for plastics that had become difficult to obtain during the early days of World War II. It was not suitable for use in her doll factory, so Kruse turned it over to her daughter Maureen, who was known in the family as "Fifi". The formulation was later sold to Eberhardt Faber and marketed under the name "FIMO" (FIfi's MOdeling Compound) in honor of Maureen.
Meanwhile, in the early 1940s, Zenith Products Company was founded in Schiller Park, IL. Zenith began as a company that manufactured coatings for the fastener industry: waxes, hot melt compounds, and electrical insulating varnishes. The product "Sculpey" was originally formulated for potential use as a thermal transfer compound - to conduct heat away from the cores of electrical transformers. However, this formulation was not successful for that purpose, so the compound was temporarily shelved. A visitor to the manufacturing plant was "doodling" with a lump of the clay-like substance and created a small figure. It was then baked in a lab testing oven - and Sculpey was "discovered" as a sculpture medium. This happened in the mid 1960's. By 1967, it was being manufactured and sold on a small scale in the United States.
The history of polymer clay as an art medium is only decades long, unlike many media that have been around for centuries and have long traditions. This newness means that there is a great deal of innovation by users of polymer clay. Often, ideas are born by borrowing from the traditions of some other materials, such as metalworking (mokume-gane), ceramics, glass (millefiori, lampwork), paper, etc.
PropertiesOriginal formulations of polymer clay remain soft until cured at relatively low temperatures, but air-dry polymer clays have recently been added to the market. Traditional polymer clay hardens by curing at temperatures created in a typical home oven, generally at 265 to 275 °F (129 to 135 °C), for 15 minutes per 1/4" (6 mm) of thickness, and does not shrink or change texture during the process. When properly conditioned and cured, most clays create items that will not break if dropped or normally stressed. Cured pieces may have additional layers or enhancements added and be re-cured with no ill effect. As long as the maximum curing temperature is not exceeded, there is no limit to the number of times a piece can be re-cured. After it has cured, the clay surface can be left as is, sanded and buffed, or finished with a water-based varnish.
Leading brands of polymer clay include Fimo; Sculpey, Premo and Studio by Sculpey, created by Polyform Products; Cernit; Formello; Modello; and Kato Polyclay, formulated for Van Aken by Donna Kato, an early artist for Fimo. Though the brands differ slightly in properties such as plasticity, translucence, curing temperature, and flexibility when cured, most are suited to a variety of applications. Specialty formulations include clay that remains permanently flexible when cured, eraser clay, and colorless and tinted liquid "clays" that can be used as slips, glazes, and adhesives.
Polymer clay is available in many colors. "Special-effect" colors such as translucent, fluorescent, phosphorescent, mica-containing "pearls" and "metallics," and variegated "stone" colors containing contrasting fibers are also available. Standard colors, which vary from brand to brand, can be mixed to create a virtually infinite range of custom colors, gradient blends, and other effects. Judith Skinner[2] is credited with inventing a technique that uses a pasta machine to create consistent gradient-blended sheets of color. This technique has many applications and is one of the basic skills developed by hobbyists or artists in the medium.
Polymer clay can be colored with other media. Paint, ink, colored pencil, chalk, metallic or mica-containing powder, metal leaf and foil, glitter, and embossing powder can be applied to the surface. The same materials also can be mixed in as inclusions; this is often done with translucent clay. When acrylic paint is cured onto the surface, it forms a permanent bond with the surface.
Few tools are essential for use with polymer clay, and these can often be found around the house. The most widely used cutting tools are tissue blades, which are extremely thin and sharp, though craft knives and other blades can be used. A pasta machine is often used to create sheets of uniform thickness, to mix colors, to condition the clay, and to create patterned sheets. A "clay gun" or extruder with interchangeable die plates allows creation of lengths of clay in a variety of uniform sizes and shapes. Most molding and modeling tools used by traditional sculptors are suitable for polymer clay, but artists often create improvised cutting, piercing, molding, and texturing tools from items used in sewing, cooking, woodworking, and paper crafts.
ApplicationHere is a little tutorial on how to make an Autumn Leaf Cane out of Polymer Clay out of which leaves will be cut off.
Needless to say that the combination of colours is as infinite as the rainbow and one can chose to go as bright or as subtle as desired :
Step 1: Choose the desired colors for your leaf (it's important to choose dark and light colors to create contrast). I use about 1/8 package for each color. Roll each color into a snake about the diameter of your Extruder.
Step 2: Cut the snakes into small circles keeping the diameter of each circle about the diameter of the Extruder.
Step 3: Now I stack all the circles together and create a cane of about 8cm long.
Step 4: Get your Extruder and a large slotted disk. (I Use No.13)
Step 5: Insert the cane from Step 3 into the extruder, attach the slotted end, and extrude a flat "snake".
Step 6: Using a round cookie cutter (about 4cm), trace a circle on your work surface.
Step 7: Begin to fill in the circle with cut off pieces of the snake as shown...
Step 8: ...until the whole circle is covered. I keep the rest of the "snake" and use it later.
Step 9: After tightening the layers I cut the edges with the cookie cutter.
Step 10: Lightly mark the center of the circle with a blade. (Do NOT cut through!)
Step 11: Offset your blade as shown and through the center point of the circle
Step 12: Now turn one of the halves upside down and position them as shown.
Step 13: Take the remains of the "snake" from Step 8 and run it through your Pasta machine, starting with #1 up to #3. The resulting sheet will be used for the leaf veins and contour.
(If there is no "snake" left over you can use one of the colors instead)
Step 14:Take a slice from the sheet just created and insert it beween the halves for the center vein of the leaf.
Step 15: Cut another piece from the sheet and wrap it around the circle.
Step 16: I now reduce the cane to the diameter I want for my leaves. When done, I pinch the cane into a leaf shape.
Step 17: This is the final result. Every cut of the cane will create a unique pattern! Enjoy & Good Luck!
Karim
