PlaymoFriends
Creative => Customs Gallery => Ships & Vehicles => Topic started by: Customizer on February 05, 2008, 20:10:38
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Hi Pf,
Richard ask about RC ships..........
i want to start a RC ship collection here.
If you have some pictures lets post here ,please !
Ok i start with some !
world greets
Andi
First ship from "FISCHKUTTER"
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the next are from Michael "macgayver" hope he had some more pics for us.
I hope for some inside pictures !!
ENJOY !
world greets
Andi
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more.......
the next from "playmodschungel" !
Very great coloring !!
ENJOY !!
world greets
Andi
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more......
and i find two 3551 fishing trawler pictures but i dont know who make this.....
ENJOY !!
world greets
Andi
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Thank you very much for all the great photos, Andi ...
I had no idea that there were that many people interested in Playmobil RC boats.
I am very curious about Michael MacGayver's RC controlled power boat. If anyone could make an RC boat work, it would be Michael!
It would be wonderful if Mr. MacGayver would give us a step by step tutorial ...
Thanks again, Andi!
All the best,
Richard
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Andi, thank you for gathering up all the various mods!
My only wish is that I had a closer source for a large-ish body of water, otherwise I would like to try some of it out myself!
fwiw here's a source for R/C scratch builders: (no affiliation with HobbyLobby other than being a customer for their R/C plane section, fyi. Also not necessarily the cheapest around - but considering Graupner's another pretty good German hobby brand!)
http://www.hobby-lobby.com/scaledrives.htm#Bow
Oh, and the link to the last item on that page? (Bow Thruster) - Now imagine that in 4472 ConLine's 'Titan' ;D ;D
Another option perhaps is to get a cheap ready-to-run R/C boat and gut out the drive/electronics?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0093p?&C=BBD
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Thanks for the suggestions and links, Peter ...
All the best,
Richard
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Wow, those are neat! I recently purchased an RC Ed Hardy pirate ship with the thought of gutting it and turning the 3286 ship into an RC ship. However, it doesn't use a rudder, but rather two props for directional control.
My question is, how do you make a seal for the prop shaft to go through that doesn't leak? And then how do you waterproof the electronics in the inevitable case that the boat takes on water and/or capsizes? Your help would be much apprecieated :D
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in "real" life there is no way you can totally seal the holes where the propellers or the rudders enter the hull. :no:
what happens is that you try to have a very narrow gap whre they rotate, with very special bearings and you pump out the water that comes in. ;)
in "playmo" life a little bit of grease will do the trick blackpearl2006. :)
i totally missed this thread and it is a great one. :love:
i have some "moral" doubts though on adding an engine to a sailing ship (i am a sailing sailor and tend to despise motor-boats). 0)
2 propellers could do the trick to manouver the boat.
they should run on opposite directions to keep the boat from going sideways and they should be perfectly sinchronized in their rotation speeds to avoid the same problem when going full speed ahead.
this would be a better scheme than to simply attach a playmo-engine and rc a moving rudder (this way you could never stop the boat).
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in "real" life there is no way you can totally seal the holes where the propellers or the rudders enter the hull. :no:
what happens is that you try to have a very narrow gap whre they rotate, with very special bearings and you pump out the water that comes in. ;)
in "playmo" life a little bit of grease will do the trick blackpearl2006. :)
i totally missed this thread and it is a great one. :love:
i have some "moral" doubts though on adding an engine to a sailing ship (i am a sailing sailor and tend to despise motor-boats). 0)
2 propellers could do the trick to manouver the boat.
they should run on opposite directions to keep the boat from going sideways and they should be perfectly sinchronized in their rotation speeds to avoid the same problem when going full speed ahead.
this would be a better scheme than to simply attach a playmo-engine and rc a moving rudder (this way you could never stop the boat).
Hmmm...lol, I too have "moral" reservations about adding props to a sailing ship, lol, even for a playmo toy. But even if I equip a playmo ship simply with a rudder and an actuator for turning the sails via slave rig, how would I ever stop the ship? On my Black Pearl custom, my sails can be furled, but unless they make tiny RC klikies that I can remote control to climb the ratlines and furl them, I don't know how else to stop the ship, lol. I suppose you could install actuators that will furl the square sails, but no way to stow the stays and the jibs unless an actuator simply just hoists them up a line (and lowers them.). And I'd need an additional actuator for lowering an anchor.
I actually thought about this; to save on actuators, I could somehow rig the furling motors to be slave rigged to the anchors, so whenever the sails are furled, the anchors drop automatically.
I guess you could stop the ship by steering her into the wind first and then furling the sails. I just thought with motors I can get easier results. But ideally, I would love it all to work like a real sailing ship, as you suggest. I have reservations even with my idea of using a two prop set up with no rudder. I'd go with one prop and a rudder preferably, but I just won this two prop ship for US$10 off ebay and I thought it'd be a good deal. I just wanna see my ship in the water without having to moor it necessarily so it doesn't blow away.
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If you buy good parts in a model making shop they are that exactly made that no water enters the ship. The parts are glued in with a 2 component glue made for model making.
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i have some "moral" doubts though on adding an engine to a sailing ship (i am a sailing sailor and tend to despise motor-boats). 0)
Hmmm...lol, I too have "moral" reservations about adding props to a sailing ship, lol, even for a playmo toy.
I have no such computations.
When I was living in Sacramento, there was a pond about 02 blocks from my apartment (Southside City Park) which you could not, swim in. I wanted to sail my boats there, but without some way to control them (return them to me), I’d have to wait for them to just sort of decide to come home.
One in particular is STILL stuck on the island, where she got caught in the thick foliage and worked her way into the island (unless they’ve removed her sometime in the last year). I will never recover my RESOLUTE, nor her entirely custom crew (and custom outfitting).
I’m all for letting them sail (or just drift) for as long as possible, but when they time comes fro them to return to port, or to avoid danger, I want to know I CAN control them.
(I very much hope someone at Playmobil reads this, BTW, and takes a hint.)
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even if you overcome all moral issues the sad truth is that playmobil saing ships are lousy sailors.
i'm posting some images of some "good" rc boats so that you can better understand my reservations.
the hull shape is not meant to be hidrodynamic, the sailing plan is no more than "schematic", the position of the ballast is too high, the keell almost non-existant, the rudder impossible to efectively customize, all the centers (weight, rotation, sailing) completely ridiculous.
this doesn't mean i don't like my playmo-ships - in fact i love them - it only means they were not designed to go out to sea.
customizing a playmo-motor-boat will no doubt be easier.
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I was able to take my Playmobil ships out and sail them. Granted, it was fairly protected waters, but they’d sail none the less.
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Hey guys.
I happen to have been a model boat afficionado for quite a long time before. Me and my brother used to build the entire hulls and riggings of our wooden models. We mostly built static models but also some dynamic ones. Either motor or sail boats.
It is true that the Playmobil pirate ships aren't seaworthy but, I think you can add a few actuators to move at least the bottom square sail, the jib and the "latine" sail at the aft, plus a rudder. You won't get a nice schooner, it won't sail fast and you'll have to anticipate the trajectories a lot but, on a wide and sheltered (no waves) surface it might work.
Practically, you'd need three actuators: one for the jib, one for the rudder and a stronger one for the two bigger sails.
Your pirate ship might just be able to sail and come back to you, no more castaway customs on Sacramento Islands!
Cheers.
Arnaud
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Hey guys.
I happen to have been a model boat afficionado for quite a long time before. Me and my brother used to build the entire hulls and riggings of our wooden models. We mostly built static models but also some dynamic ones. Either motor or sail boats.
It is true that the Playmobil pirate ships aren't seaworthy but, I think you can add a few actuators to move at least the bottom square sail, the jib and the "latine" sail at the aft, plus a rudder. You won't get a nice schooner, it won't sail fast and you'll have to anticipate the trajectories a lot but, on a wide and sheltered (no waves) surface it might work.
Practically, you'd need three actuators: one for the jib, one for the rudder and a stronger one for the two bigger sails.
Your pirate ship might just be able to sail and come back to you, no more castaway customs on Sacramento Islands!
Cheers.
Arnaud
Well, to sail back to us even if the wind is blowing away, we'd have to at least add some sort of functional keel to the ship so we can tack against the wind. Most of the sails including the spanker can probably be slave rigged to one actuator (I've seen it done). I think we'd have to install a real flag made of light whispy fabrik atop the mast so we can tell what the actual wind directinon is in relation to our ship more acurately (that way we can adjust the sails and rudder accordingly to stay on course).
Functionality is no problem. It's stability and a keel that needs work if we're simply using wind. With full canvas, the boats are easily capsized in my experience. Motor or not, the one thing for sure I'm installing on my 3286 is a keel.
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One thing I simply can NOT understand is why they don’t make the ship’s counterweight/stabilizer (part #3Ø 67 167Ø, et el) into a remote control system; It’s more than big enough to do the job as-is (make it a little longer and you could even fit a D-Cell battery for longer sailing time)…
Just FRUSTRATING, seriously.
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One thing I simply can NOT understand is why they don’t make the ship’s counterweight/stabilizer (part #3Ø 67 167Ø, et el) into a remote control system; It’s more than big enough to do the job as-is (make it a little longer and you could even fit a D-Cell battery for longer sailing time)…
Just FRUSTRATING, seriously.
That would be REALLY nice. :o :o :o :)
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8} maybe you can help me with this "objection".
how can you sail a playmo-schooner (as an example) close hauled? it has (like all its bigger sisters) a square sail.
as i see it, the only way to make it sail (with "moveable" sheets and rudder) would be to launch it so that it would sail in reaching.
otherwise, you will never get it back.
:hmm: am i making sense? :hmm: am i wrong?
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I think to tack against the wind on the schooner you'd have to draw the square sail and rely on the jibs and lanteen, mainly because on the playmobil ships the shrouds get in the way of the square sail being able to pivot much more than a few degrees, and the square sails cannot be tacked. Regardless of being able to use the square sail or not, to tack against the wind we need a true keel, long and true. You cannot sail close hauled without a keel to negate lateral forces and redirect them in the ship's forward direction. Otherwise the playmobil ship is nothing more than a bowl floating aimlessly in the water.
As far as getting her back, in either case, even with a motor, I would attach a line to her stern (up high so as not to be entangled with the propeller, if you have a motor installed) so you can pull her back if she gets too far away. My other idea on this would be to let her sail free, but use a remote control tug to taxi her back to shore if you have to. Or eliminate the tug altogether and install props to act in a tug's stead.
I see no shame in adding a motor for backup purposes; even modern tallship replicas like the Lady Washington have motors for taxying and when the wind is not ideal. I do know, however, that the Lady Washington relys on the wind majority of the time, which can carry them at times even faster than their on-board engine at full speed.
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As far as getting her back, in either case, even with a motor, I would attach a line to her stern (up high so as not to be entangled with the propeller, if you have a motor installed) so you can pull her back if she gets too far away. My other idea on this would be to let her sail free, but use a remote control tug to taxi her back to shore if you have to. Or eliminate the tug altogether and install props to act in a tug's stead.
I would sail Queen Of Ranroon around Southside City Park (Sacramento, CA) with a fishing line attached to the stern to haul her back. Just sayin’.I see no shame in adding a motor for backup purposes; even modern tallship replicas like the Lady Washington have motors for taxying and when the wind is not ideal. I do know, however, that the Lady Washington relys on the wind majority of the time, which can carry them at times even faster than their on-board engine at full speed.
True Story:
The Lady Washington was in Sac, and I decided to take a tour. I was wearing my CGC ACACIA cover, and the guy giving us the tour looked right at me and said “We have enigines on board because the Coast Guard makes us.” (He wasn’t being disrespectful, he was just f***ing with me.)
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Ahoy y'all :wave:
I have made two custom Playmobil scale sailing ships that had only one RC chanel for the rudder.
They sailed very well in the 3 acre pond at our park.
One was a 4 foot, two masted square rigger that weighed about 32 pounds I think.
Much steel ballast in the hold. The keel was also 1/2 inch steel bar stock.
She capsized and sunk in a mighty blow one day but was rescued with a fishing rod and bass plug. ;D
The other one is a sampan with two masts with a junk rig. That one sailed the best,
and I could actually "paddle" it with the oversized rudder!
The square rigger is somewhere in the customs section, and not sure if I posted
pics of the sampan.......sold the square rigger....still have the sampan.
I probably ought to have a go with a real Playmobil ship. ;D
Sand locked sailor,
Jimbo
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Ahoy y'all :wave:
I have made two custom Playmobil scale sailing ships that had only one RC chanel for the rudder.
They sailed very well in the 3 acre pond at our park.
One was a 4 foot, two masted square rigger that weighed about 32 pounds I think.
Much steel ballast in the hold. The keel was also 1/2 inch steel bar stock.
She capsized and sunk in a mighty blow one day but was rescued with a fishing rod and bass plug. ;D
The other one is a sampan with two masts with a junk rig. That one sailed the best,
and I could actually "paddle" it with the oversized rudder!
The square rigger is somewhere in the customs section, and not sure if I posted
pics of the sampan.......sold the square rigger....still have the sampan.
I probably ought to have a go with a real Playmobil ship. ;D
Sand locked sailor,
Jimbo
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So they were not Playmoships, but rather in-scale to Playmobil? I still think success in sailing a Playmoship will be found in adding keels and tackable squares unimpeded by plastic shrouds.
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So they were not Playmoships, but rather in-scale to Playmobil? I still think success in sailing a Playmoship will be found in adding keels and tackable squares unimpeded by plastic shrouds.
Hi BlackPearl2006.
I just took a Klicky and built a ship around it...
I have done some thinking about real Playmobil ships, and agree that weight and a keel
for sure must be added to the hull.
I thought about slicing an inch or so off the bottom of a Playmo hull
and adding a 2-3 inch solid wood hull cut and shaped to the plastic
upper hull. The wooden bottom hull could be filled with ballast and a heavy keel added.
:2c:
Jimbo
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Finally found a 3286 conversion to RC. (not mine). As you can see, the customizer "waboats" from rcgroups.com forums ended up sealing the gunports shut to prevent water from coming in and capsizing the ship. Not too crazy about the placement of the prop or the moulding job (he didn't sand it smooth or make it look stock)...maybe he did that to conceal the use of the prop. he writes:
"I have had quite a good success with the Pirate Galleon from Playmobil.
Every time it hits the water the kids are amazed and all want to have a go..
It runs on a direct drive 360-14 motor by electronize with two channel control. Not for outside on the pond but a great indoor or sheltered water novelty. Uses existing ballast bulb and has a few extra Pirate bits & bobs for effect.
I use a small Li-Po battery I got from a Heli I crashed & burned..
I have sponge around the electronics in case a small amount of water gets in. Not sealed and comes apart where the toy does. Only trade off on the hull was I glued the Gun Ports in place permanently.
Keeping it out of the wind is the trick..
Run Time is about 1 hour. "
(http://static.rcgroups.net/forums/attachments/1/3/3/9/1/1/a1158032-93-Playmobil%20Pirate%20Ship.jpg)
(http://static.rcgroups.net/forums/attachments/1/3/3/9/1/1/a1161753-221-Img_1931.jpg)
(http://static.rcgroups.net/forums/attachments/1/3/3/9/1/1/a1161755-159-Img_1933.jpg)
(http://static.rcgroups.net/forums/attachments/1/3/3/9/1/1/a1161761-124-Img_1934.jpg)
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He also did the viking ship
(http://static.rcgroups.net/forums/attachments/1/3/3/9/1/1/a1163865-81-Viking%20Boat.jpg)
(http://static.rcgroups.net/forums/attachments/1/3/3/9/1/1/a1163865-81-Viking%20Boat.jpg)