PlaymoFriends
General => Trains! => Topic started by: gloobey on January 22, 2008, 22:27:06
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Like the title says...I run electric trains and wanted to convert the new red RC loco (4010) to electric. It ended up being EXTREMELY EASY. I was envisioning all sorts of changes that would have to be made, but it was a breeze.
I removed the RC motor block (some disassembly of the cab was needed and the divider behind the seats had to be removed as well) and inserted an old Playmobil motor block. It fits perfectly with no modification needed. The hole that accepts the RC block also lines up nicely with the electric block. A short machine screw holds it in place, and it runs great.
The only issue was lighting. It's the one thing I really like about the new RC trains and I didn't want to lose it. I took the battery box from the Playmobil space station (3079) and placed it behind the seats (where the divider wall was removed). The plug from the lights fits it quite nicely. I guess the other option would be to wire it to the motor box directly but I want to be able to switch between electric and RC so didn't want to permanently alter any parts.
I haven't tried the passenger express trains yet. I'll report on it if I do. Anybody else do anything like this? or perhaps find a better way?
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I tried to run my 4010 cargo train (RC mode) on my "around the Christmas tree" LGB track layout, but the engine would constantly derail on the switches and 30 degree crossing - I used this layout modified with a few 4 additional straight pieces added to make it a bit larger and added 3 switches to create side yards for keeping cars:
(http://www.thortrains.net/yule/yullayg1g.gif)
In reading other forums, it appears the flange on the RC trains is a bit larger then the electric ones, so it causes the wheel to rise when going over LGB switches.
So... did you have to reduce the flange side on the other set of wheels on the engine or does it seem to run smoothly on the electric track?
Thanks!
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Y'know, I've never had any trouble running my Playmobil trains on LGB track. I have noticed that the RC trains run smoother if the motor block is placed at the front of the train. Other than that they run great over all the curves and switches that I have.
I'm using the brass, European style LGB track indoors and then I use Aristocraft brass track outdoors both with no problems to report...
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Hello, Steve and KT ...
I replaced all of the Playmobil's plastic wheel sets with LGB's metal wheel sets.
They fit perfectly and run great on brass rail. The metal wheel sets are also heavy enough to eliminate the need for any other weight pieces.
All the best,
Richard
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That's good advice. I have replaced the plastic wheels on all of my Playmobil passenger cars with metal wheels. I did it because I wanted to add weight and get a "clickety clack" noise.
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Hello, Steve ...
That's good advice. I have replaced the plastic wheels on all of my Playmobil passenger cars with metal wheels. I did it because I wanted to add weight and get a "clickety clack" noise.
You definitely get a "clickety clack" noise. Just ask my wife ... :lol:
All the best,
Richard
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:lol: Does it bother her? That noise is one of the things my wife likes about the trains. She thinks that it's cute, or romantic in some way.
The thing that she doesn't like is the space that it takes up! She preferred the N scale layout that I did...
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The thing that she doesn't like is the space that it takes up! She preferred the N scale layout that I did...
Sounds like it might be time to think about moving outside, Steve ... :)
Seems like Port Townsend would be a great place for a garden railway.
All the best,
Richard
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We get quite a bit of rain here Richard. Not as much as Seattle, but enough. I do have a fledgling loop of track in my backyard. It's now going on two years, but it mainly gets used from April-October. It's quite expensive to fund a complete outdoor railroad so I am working on it slowly as my experience level evolves. I've learned alot about running outdoor trains by reading online and then experimenting with what I have. To my knowledge I'm the only one in town who's tried it so far. I'll definitely be posting outdoor pics when Spring weather arrives.
Now I'm completeley off topic...perhaps I should start an outdoor train thread?
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Now I'm completeley off topic...perhaps I should start an outdoor train thread?
Steve, an outdoor train thread would be great!
Love to see what you've done so far ..,
(And, don't be shy about showing ... I haven't even started my Garden Railroad yet) ... :-[
All the best,
Richard
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I don't have a cargo train handy to look at, but would it be possible to put in 2 engine electric blocks?
I'm thinking that the cargo train would be able to pull more cars with 2 engine blocks rather than one, sort of like the 4052 large locomotive which has a powered engine and powered tender.
This question came about when I was talking about the RC trains at a show this weekend and the complaint was they would only pull 4 partially loaded cars, whereas the electric train can pull 7 or 8 and the 4052 can pull 12.
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I haven't tried it, but it looks like it would work. The holes seem to be in the same place on both ends so a motor block should screw into each end. You would need to get a second grey motor housing, and then trim the battery pack end off to get the right clearance. The other option would be to modify the existing grey wheel carrier that it comes with.
I'm a little frustrated in trying to explain this. I'd like to show a few pics but my digital camera died on me this morning! If you turn the loco over you can see what I mean. One of the grey wheel carriers is shorter thna the other...I hope I haven't confused you?
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Of course I'm confused :yup:
My 4010 cargo train is up in the attic, but maybe I'll have to get the ladder and retrieve it, so I can see what it's like underneath.
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but maybe I'll have to get the ladder and retrieve it ...
Be careful ...
The last time I did that, I slipped off the ladder and broke four ribs ... 8}
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Okay, since my camera is currently being shipped to me I thought I migt try to clarify my previous explanation a bit. The part that I'm calling the motor housing is actually part no. 30452920 an dthe wheel carrier is 30452910.
Both of these parts can be clearly seen on playmodb.org if you look up set 4010. This is the best i can do until I get my camera. I hope it helps?
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Got the train down (no injuries!) and it looks like it would be a major chore to add 2 engine blocks. The housing that contains the second set of wheels is smaller than the set containing the RC motor as the battery mount for the motor is in the center of the engine car. And the 2 pairs wheels just clip into the housing. Which is what you would expect since there's no reason the make it any different.
I guess I was thinking more like the tender coal car on the 4029 set, where it's the same tender car as the 4052 large locomotive, but it has an motor block consisting of only of the wheels - no motor or electrical connections.
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I still don't think it would be that hard. It would definitely require a call to Direct Service. I would want to have spare parts before I started altering things. My other thought was to just have two locos. Set 'em up with the same quartz colors and awaythey go, twice the pulling power!
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I still don't think it would be that hard. It would definitely require a call to Direct Service. I would want to have spare parts before I started altering things. My other thought was to just have two locos. Set 'em up with the same quartz colors and away they go, twice the pulling power!
Hello,, Steve and KT ...
Seems like I read someplace that the RPMs of the two electric motors have to identical, or you'll wear out the gears and shorten the lives of both motors. Have either of you ever heard that before?
BTW, KT ... Happy you didn't try any aerobatics from the attic to the floor below ... ;)
All the best,
Richard
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Seems like I read someplace that the RPMs of the two electric motors have to be identical, or you'll wear out the gears and shorten the lives of both motors. Have either of you ever heard that before?
Richard, this is absolutely correct, but in the case of playmobil, all the electric engine blocks are all the same gearing and motors, so you can run two at a time. In fact Playmobil did exactly that with the 4052 locomotive - it has a motor in the locomotive and a motor in the coal tender.
Glazz74's layout that he takes to train shows around here has two diesel engines pulling his load of 12 or so cars.
In the case of LGB engines and locomotives - they have so many different electric motors and final gearing (wheel size as well as inside gearing) that you really have to pay attention. I think all Stanz locos are the same motor and gearing, but don't quote me on that.
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Thanks for the info, KT ...
... in the case of playmobil, all the electric engine blocks are all the same gearing and motors, so you can run two at a time. In fact Playmobil did exactly that with the 4052 locomotive - it has a motor in the locomotive and a motor in the coal tender.
To be sure that both motors on my 4052 always received the same electrical input, I ran an electrical connection between the engine and tender. This also increased the number of contacts with the track, which allowed the train to run flawlessly even over "dirty" track!
All the best,
Richard
see attachment
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Hi Guys,
I would definitely run identical locos together. I usually run two little LGB diesel switchers or two Stainz locos together (both #2).
I have tried to run LGB and Playmobil locos mixed and with bad results. The varying speeds of the motors cause derailments and sporadic running...I never considered the wear on the gears/motor bearings, but it does make sense now that you mention it Richard.
One thing that's always bothered me about Playmobil locos is the lack of a coupler hook. It prevents a lash up. I haven't modified any of them with an added hook. I guess it wouldn't be that hard. Have either of you tried it?
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I finally got an engine block 7550 to convert my RC loco 4010 (which I think is the most difficult part). ;D
(http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/q564/BiktopP/Lego/DSC03723.jpg)
(http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/q564/BiktopP/Lego/DSC03718.jpg)
(http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/q564/BiktopP/Lego/DSC03721.jpg)
(http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/q564/BiktopP/Lego/DSC03724.jpg)
(http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/q564/BiktopP/Lego/DSC03566.jpg)
For those of you that have done the conversion, how should I hold the electric engine block into the original case 30 45 2920 shown in the diagram. The RC engine block has two holes for screws. Where to drill in the electric one? Anyone has photos to share? Maybe you can use mine to draw where. Any recommendations? :hatoff:
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I used heavy duty double stick tape to hold the block to the underside of the carriage. I looked at using screws, but they don't line up properly and I didn't want to drill trough the weights or the carriage.
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Yes, it is possible to put there 2 electrical motors under the 4010 electric loco.
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I used heavy duty double stick tape to hold the block to the underside of the carriage. I looked at using screws, but they don't line up properly and I didn't want to drill trough the weights or the carriage.
Thanks for the advice. Never thought about it. What about heat generated by the engine? Could it unstick the tape glue... ???
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What about heat generated by the engine? Could it unstick the tape glue..
I never thought about the heat from the motor. I haven't run it for hours at a time, but I haven't had any issues running it for 45 minutes.
The good news is it's easy to try and can be removed completely without damaging or changing anything, so you can revert back to the battery operated block.