PlaymoFriends
Creative => How-To => Topic started by: indianapierre on January 30, 2017, 20:56:45
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Hello everybody,
I stumbled across a great find at a garage sale! I had been eyeing this princess castle since it came out; but the customization work I had in mind made the price too high. Now, however, I'll be able to see my project come to life! I want to build a manor house to use as a city-hall in my medieval town. I think I've worked out a plan for an end product similar to what is pictured below, but to really get it to work, I'll have to saw off a few chunks of system-X floor.
But how should I do that? I mean, I've got some various saws, but is there anything of which I should be particularly cognizent? Is there a major risk of snapping or cracking? Is there a grade of tooth I should know about? Can I just take a saw and have at it?
Thanks!
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I have no idea about the sawing part (I wouldn't dare :0), but I assume it also involves painting?
Though I am of no help, I am very much looking forward to the result! ;D
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I've also idley thought there must be some potential in that building, once it was spray painted in more neutral colours, so I'd love to see what you come up with. However, I also have never dared to cut up Playmobil :o
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There will definitely be paint involved!
I've been appreciating the previous painting discussion, which will be figured into how I proceed with this project. I've been trying to find the right color palette. Originally, I had intended to make it the residence of the Golden Swan knight (seeing the similar theme in the windows), and had intended a blue/white/gold design. The idea hasn't sat as well over time, however. I keep looking at historical references, many of which are more eggshell white or even adobe/brick. I worry if I leave the majority of it white, it will be too Rococo.
Right now I'm thinking about a dark-brown roof with blue details on white walls.
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Can't say I remember seeing that castle before, but I don't think I look at the fairytale stuff much. It does indeed have a great shape. Good luck on your project, it sounds great!
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I've sawn just a few parts. A fine toothed small saw blade is preferred. I have used an X-acto saw blade from their small mitre box set. It may not be large enough for big system x pieces though. Fine small teeth are definitely warranted, and you will want to clamp the pieces down and use a guide if possible to maintain a crisp line for the blade.
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The best saw to use is a razor saw. This has no back to the blade, only cuts on the pull stroke, has a lot of very fine teeth and leaves a smooth edge with no need to smooth the cut edge down.
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The best saw to use is a razor saw. This has no back to the blade, only cuts on the pull stroke, has a lot of very fine teeth and leaves a smooth edge with no need to smooth the cut edge down.
That sounds interesting...
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Not every saw advertised as a razor saw cuts flush. Some saws are described as razor saws because of the thinness of the blade. But a true razor saw has a very thin blade and no set on the teeth - i.e. the teeth are all in a straight line. So to be sure, check that any saw called a razor saw is also described as cutting flush.
You may also find them just called flush cut saws.
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Thanks so much for the advice. I'm off to the hardware store this weekend (for my kitchen/bath remodel - which is our primary reason for going according to my wife :p )
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Scoring, then snapping, hard plastic strucutures has always given me better results than any kind of saw ever did.
This may be a limitiation of my own skill and/or patience, but sawing styrene always ended up with a crooked, ugly cut. Even perfectly aligned cuts tend to ruin one side or the other of the piece, and it sure would be great to save the house part AND that nice tower from your garage sale find...
The razor saw may work as well as scoring for you, but scoring it has been more wriggle proof for me.
For cutting a straight line on a flat surface, you need:
*a scribe/etcher/small awl (Amazon, hardware stores sell them under several names)
*a steel ruler or square
*a clamp (optional)
Clamp the ruler where you want the cut, or hold it in place, and just gently run the scribe along the edge.
If your first pass is where you need it, just repeatly run the scribe over the groove, putting just a bit more pressure on with each pass.
After you are about 1/3 to 1/2 of the way through, the plastic should snap nicely along the seam you just made.
If you are cutting at a corner, say, where a flat wall meets a tower wall, you don't even need a ruler, just use the inside corner as you guide.
Sometimes you may still need to use a saw to cut underlying supports from walls. Using a scribe on the outer surface can keep the visible face clean even if things are messier behind the wall.
HTH. Sorry the tip was late.
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No worries! I haven't started yet and I appreciate the advice. I did buy the razor saw, but i can still see how the score,/snap goes.
Thanks!