PlaymoFriends
Creative => How-To => Topic started by: Psyche on November 26, 2005, 23:27:22
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I know most of this has been explained before in various places but I'm really seriously wanting to do some nice painting and my previous attempts have be mediocre at best. I find I have a few recurring questions and hope you experienced customizers can help:
(1) how do you hold (or what do you use to hold) the klicky when painting it. The two times I've tried I find my fingers just get in the way.
(2) what is meant by color resist?
(3) what do you think of top coats? Sealers? I hear they are a must if one is using acrylics but what works best?
(4) do you use a primer coat? If so, again, what has worked best for you?
(5) what size & type of brushes do you use?
and (6) what type of paint do you prefer?
Many thanks for any and all assistance.
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If you can get hold of one, the official Playmobil klicky holder is the thing.
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Wow! Where on earth might I find one of those??? :o
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I got it in an eBay lot. It's only quite recently that I found out what it was. For extra steadiness, you can fix the handle in a vice.
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Do you think Direct Service might carry such a part???
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Do you think Direct Service might carry such a part???
Quite doubtful. :( I think they originally came with the Playmobil Color sets, didn't they?
I have one (thanks to Isabella :-*), but I haven't tested it for usefulness whilst painting klickies yet. I believe it only fits onto certain styles of klicky feet and most of the customs I've done since I acquired the holder haven't been suitable. :-\
I rarely use a primer when painting on Playmobil. Sometimes, I will use a coat of matt light grey paint first if I'm trying to cover colours with a large contrast (ie. making black boots white), but usually it's not necessary. I suppose it depends on which type of paints you're using.
I use a good quality model-painting brush (the finer the better when doing small details) and favour Humbrol (http://www.exeter-models.co.uk/acatalog/Humbrol_Paints.html) enamels. I've tried Revell (http://www.exeter-models.co.uk/acatalog/Revell_Paints.html) also, but am not so keen on the consistency of it. I've discovered it's very hard to find a white model paint that goes on smooth with a brush. Mine always ends up lumpy, no matter what I do. 8}
Most of the time I use matt model paints and finish of with a coat of clear satin varnish to increase durability. This is mainly because it's difficult to find satin model paints in a wide range of colours up here. I don't really like using gloss paints on Playmo because they take a lot longer to dry on the plastic and the finish is overly-shiny when compared to the other regular figures.
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So you wouldn't recommend acrylics Sylvia? I ask because that's mostly what I use for my paper arts and I already have a ton of colors of acrylics.
Also, if the holder doesn't fit, how to you hold the klicky when painting?
I do have several of the old color sets unopened so shall have to take a peak and see if there is a holder in one of them. :)
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LOL! I read Psyche`s questions and the replies without logging in. Then I took few photos and came back to post. I logged in and the first thing I saw was Gordon`s photo of the Playmo klicky holder. It took me half an hour to find that gizmo, so I´m going to post the photo. :P
I never use it, by the way, I used to but it has it´s drawbacks; the klicky can still move at the waist for example.
I take the figure apart. If I want to paint the body I hold the legs, or the feet and neck between my finger and thumb.
If I want to paint the legs I hold the frame.
If I want to paint the arms I push the hands into plastercine, some people say modeling clay, I think.
I started painting using acrylics, but now prefer enamel paints. All I can add to what Sylvia said is that some of the gloss colours, especially black, take days to dry, but the matt colours are surprisingly quick drying. Enamel colours can be thinned far more than acrylics and the paintwork is robuster.
Go to a good modal or art shop for your brushes, no one can paint with bad brushes. The best is to ask for advice. Brushes are numbered according to size, I use a 2 for painting a torso or any large area an 0 for finer work and a 000 for the finest work.
Everyone develops their own technique and tricks. Try something simple to begin and preferably on an old and boring klicky.
Have a cloth and paper towels ready, just in case... ;-)
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So you wouldn't recommend acrylics Sylvia? I ask because that's mostly what I use for my paper arts and I already have a ton of colors of acrylics.
Hi Psyche,
If you have a lot of acrylics at home by all means use them. They work as well, but I find enamels cover better and the paint isn´t so easily damaged.
guarrenzino.
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(cf. my article (http://www.jr-x.de/playmobil/customizing/paint.html) about painting, removing colors and masking)
I use enamel paint too. Most times I first use primer (white, from Revell). To get a smooth and regular finish I use an airbrush set for "areas". For small details I use brushes known from the modelling, or I use a masking technique (cf. hyperlink above). Most times I paint my figures in an unassembled way like David, but more from necessity of using the aibrush. To airbrush the figure or its limbs I fix them with tape to a small wooden stick (the tape I use can be seen in the article mentioned above, on the photo on the bottom of the page). For drying I fix them with a small piece of tape to an edge of a hanging cupboard or something else so that they can hang free in the air.
One alternative to the klicky holder might be the small stands provided in the very first sets of Playmobil. This plate shouldn't be rare and can be mounted to a stick and should work also fine. Drawback: this typically works only for the regular (older) feets. (Although I didn't use such a holder or plate for my own customs.)
If you're interested, give me a hint. Then I will make a photo of such a plate and if you like it can send you one.
Regards
Jochen
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If this is the plate I'm thinking of, you can now get them from DS in white from the 3179 fire fighter set or in claer plastic.
I'll come up with part numbers tomorrow.
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Wow, what fantastic tips and links! Yes, the part number would be nice Gordon if not too much hassle to find.
Jochen, thanks for the tip on drying and the link (I just have to find a cat free area or they will think a hanging klicky is a kitty toy.)
David, I think they do all it modeling clay here (I also have the softer kid-stuff play-doh that I use with my preschoolers, is that too soft do you think?) I guess I'm going to have to get less shy about cracking klickies...I only have done so about 5 times and always cringe when they "crunch". But it makes sense to paint the parts separately. And thanks for the info on brushes. There is a model hobby shop in the next town over so I will have to give them a visit.
One more dumb question then, if you want to do an intricate design on an arm, do you paint the base color first, let it dry, then stick the arm back in the clay? Will that mess up the base coat?
Thanks for all the help...I'm sure lots of other novices get stumped by what seem simple things to you pros. Your advice is much appreciated. :D
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If this is the plate I'm thinking of, you can now get them from DS in white from the 3179 fire fighter set or in claer plastic.
I'll come up with part numbers tomorrow.
Not exactly. The one you are referring to (PlaymoDB says order no. 30 23 0440) is more similiar to the klicky holder. The one I'm think of has a kind of foot print for both feets and at each of the foot prints left and right a small clip. Maybe I can provide a photo within the next days (first have to search this piece).
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One more dumb question then, if you want to do an intricate design on an arm, do you paint the base color first, let it dry, then stick the arm back in the clay? Will that mess up the base coat?
Although I'm obvisously not the one asked (sorry David >:D): e.g. when I'm painting an arm I wrap the hands with tape leaving a long piece lose for fixing to the cupboard (cf. above). Then I hold the arm on the taped hand and airbrush it. With the lose tape end I fix it to the cupboard for drying. After it has been dried I remove the tape from the cupboard but not from the hand. Again holding it on the taped hand for intricate painting (e.g. with a brush) and after this fixing it again with the lose end of tape to the cupboard. The tape normally can be fixed and removed several times to/from the cupboard before it does not hold anymore.
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You're quite right - the old ones are different.
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when I'm painting an arm I wrap the hands with tape leaving a long piece lose for fixing to the cupboard (cf. above).
Never thought of using tape. Must try that tip myself! ;D
I usually stick the loose arms into a blob of blu-tac while painting them and while they are drying, but they don't always stay put.
One thing I found handy while painting a loose torso piece (where you have no arms or legs to hold onto) was to wedge it firmly onto the handle of another model-painting brush through the neck hole of the klicky - a thicker one which tapers slightly at either end is ideal for this. You can then turn the torso around easily without touching the newly-painted surface and you can stand it up, using the handle as a support, inside an old mug or something similar to dry. This stops the surfaces coming into contact with anything that would mess up the finish while they're still sticky. Not exactly a high-tech method, but it works for me. ;)
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I use enamel paint too; usually humbrol or model master/testors. I also completely disassemble a figure prior to painting. I click the arms onto an old playmo-scythe; its blade and top handle pointed downwards provide a stable platform and good handling while painting. For the chest I use an old spare klicky frame+legs, for the head I use an old chest/ frame/legs combination to click it on; these are ment to be paint-smeared. On top of the legs I stick an old small brush (the legs are hollow) to act as a handhold.
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I 'crack' the klicky for painting, too.
For the arms, I use a Playmo spear to secure them ... the hands klick on nice and tight, making them easy to paint.
For the legs, I use a Q-Tip (cotton swab). The cotton seems to hold the legs relatively still while I paint.
For the main body, I use a bit of Fimo clay on a bamboo skewer, then secure the torso on top of that. Warning: the enamel paint NEVER dries on the clay, so be careful when removing the playmo piece, so you don't pick up paint from the clay on your fingers. I use another bamboo skewer through the arm holes to pull it away, just in case.
I highly recommend using a GOOD quality paint brush. The brushes are expensive, but they're worth it.
I use enamel paint, too. I don't think your acrylics will work as well, Psyche. I'm used to them as well, but you're not going to get the coverage you want on the plastic without adding too much thickness. Believe it or not, that paint thickness will get you.
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This is great all the clever ways people have of securing the parts during painting. I like the idea of using swords and sycthes to secure arms. :)
It also looks like enamel is the way to go. I'm asking for supplies for the holidays so will add some basic colors of enamel paint, some high quality brushes, clay, and maybe the light/magnifier lamp to my wish list.
This is great info! Thanks!
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AND, the nice part about using spears, scythes, etc. to secure the arms, is that you can then lay the spear across the top of a cup for drying.
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As for masking: I generally don't use it on klickys because of the small and complex surfaces. On larger surfaces I may use paper tape, as it is slightly flexible when it comes to curved lines.
With klickys I use a very thin brush and a patient steady hand to make the outlines, after which I fill in the surface with a somewhat bigger brush (in relation to the surface to be painted of course).
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and a patient steady hand to make the outlines
Where can I get one of those? ;) :P
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Where can I get one of those? ;) :P
Well, sometimes a few cans of beer work wonders... ;D ;D
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Where can I get one of those? ;) :P
That was my question excactly.
Well, sometimes a few cans of beer work wonders... ;D ;D
Will a triple shot Margarita work as well? ;)
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Will a triple shot Margarita work as well? ;)
Mmmm.... Margueritas... my favorite! :yup:
Seriously, thanks to all for all this info! It is making me seriously want to try making a custom.
Red